DEAR MEXICAN: I love ethnic foods, and I always ask people of ethnic origins which local restaurants they like to eat at.
Whenever I ask Mexicans what Mexican restaurants they like best, the
answer is always "I don't like the way any of them make their food." I
live in Phoenix, which has a Mexican restaurant run by Mexicans on every
corner. Don't tell me they all Americanize their food for us gabachas. What gives?
DEAR GABACHA: Phoenix and the cities around
it have a great Mexican-food scene, from the alta cocina fare at Barrio
Café to the Globe-style buttered burritos at Casa Reynoso in Tempe and un chingo
of Sonoran eateries with their fabulous caldo de queso, the greatest
soup on Earth. But it's never good enough for Mexicans. Oh, we'll go out
to eat at Mexican spots, but no one can cook like our mamí or primos during a carne asada Sunday, especially not in el Norte,
because . . . well, because, okay? Don't question Mexicans! Such
Mexican arrogance filters down to our soccer squad—and now you know why
El Tri won't ever get to even the semifinals of the FIFA World Cup until
Cuauhtémoc himself becomes our forward. And I'm not talking about
Blanco. . . .
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